If your Southern Motion, Lane, or Ashley lift chair stops working, don’t toss it—fixing it is often much cheaper than buying a replacement. This short guide and accompanying video from Great Furniture Deal walks you through easy, practical repairs so you can get your power recliner working again.
You’ll learn how to test the power supply, check the button or remote control, and troubleshoot motor issues with clear, step-by-step tips. For additional help or to send photos, call (800) 970-5889 or text (801) 609-3220.
Safety First and Preparations
Before you begin any diagnostic or repair work on your lift chair, safety has to be your top priority. You’ll be working with electrical components, moving mechanical parts, and potentially heavy assemblies, so take a slow, methodical approach. Read the manufacturer’s safety warnings in your manual, wear appropriate PPE, and plan each step so you don’t rush and make a mistake.
Unplugging the chair and confirming power is off before any work
Always unplug the chair from the wall before you touch wiring, the control box, or motors. Don’t just turn off the remote—disconnect the mains power. Once unplugged, confirm the power is off by trying the hand control (it should be dead) and visually checking the GFCI or any powered LED indicators are off. If you must test electrical circuits, plug in only after you’ve prepared proper test leads and are wearing protective gear.
Using personal protective equipment: gloves, safety glasses, and knee pads
Wear insulated gloves when you work around live circuits or when you’re unsure whether something is energized. Safety glasses protect you from debris when removing panels or springs, and knee pads make it more comfortable if you’ll be working on the floor for a while. Use thicker gloves for mechanical work and finer, insulated gloves for electrical checks.
Clearing the work area and protecting upholstery and flooring
Move the chair into a well-lit, ventilated area with room to access the underside and back. Protect upholstery and flooring with a drop cloth or old blankets so clips, tools, or chemicals don’t damage fabric or finishes. Keep children and pets out of the work area and give yourself room to remove panels and set aside parts.
Keeping a photo log: photographing wiring and connectors before disassembly
Before you disconnect anything, take clear photos of wiring runs, connector orientations, and bracket locations. Use your phone to shoot wide shots and close-ups; these images are invaluable when reassembling. Label photos or note which shot corresponds to which connector so you can reverse the steps accurately.
Understanding manufacturer safety features (anti-pinch, limit switches)
Lift chairs often include anti-pinch circuits, limit switches, and motor current sensing to prevent damage or injury. Understand these features before bypassing any safety devices—bypassing limit switches may let a mechanism move past its safe range and cause harm. If a safety feature is triggering repeatedly, solve the root cause rather than permanently bypassing the protection.
Notifying household members and having a second person available for heavy lifting
Tell everyone in the home you’re working on the chair and cordon off the area. When moving or lifting the chair, have another person help—many power recliners are heavier than they look and have awkward shapes. A helper can also hand you tools, hold panels, and act as a spotter when you test motors or reattach wiring.
Tools and Replacement Parts You’ll Need
Having the right tools and parts on hand will make troubleshooting faster and safer. Assemble a basic kit before you start so you’re not hunting for an adapter or crimper mid-job.
Basic hand tools: screwdrivers, pliers, socket set, Allen keys
You’ll need a variety of screwdrivers (Phillips and flat), needle-nose and lineman pliers, a metric/SAE socket set, and Allen keys. Many recliner fasteners are small or use hex heads—having a magnetic screwdriver or bit set helps. Keep a small tray to organize screws and washers as you remove panels.
Electrical tools: multimeter, continuity tester, wire strippers, crimpers
A digital multimeter is essential to check outlet voltage, transformer output, and continuity across switches and wires. A simple continuity tester also helps. Wire strippers and ratcheting crimpers will let you make clean splices and replace connectors if needed. Match crimp terminals to the wire gauge for secure connections.
Specialty tools: small flashlight, inspection mirror, plastic trim tools
A bright flashlight and inspection mirror help you see under the chair and inside narrow cavities. Plastic trim tools prevent damage to upholstery and decorative trim when you remove panels or routing clips. Small nut drivers and a flexible extension for your socket wrench can reach recessed bolts.
Replacement parts: hand control, remote, control box, transformer, motor/actuator, fuses
Common replacement parts include the hand control (wired), wireless remote modules, the control box (power module), transformers/AC adapters, linear motors/actuators, and inline fuses. Keep spare fuses of the correct type and rating. If you suspect a motor, having a compatible actuator on hand can get you back in business faster.
Consumables: zip ties, electrical tape, heat shrink, contact cleaner, lubricant
Zip ties tidy wiring runs; electrical tape and heat-shrink tubing protect splices. Contact cleaner helps revive dirty connectors and membrane switches. A light white lithium or silicone lubricant will quiet tracks and allow smooth travel of mechanical parts.
How to choose correct part sizes and electrical ratings for Southern Motion, Lane, Ashley
Match parts exactly by model number whenever possible. For electrical components, match the transformer’s output voltage and current (e.g., 12V DC at 2A) and connector polarity. Southern Motion, Lane, and Ashley commonly use low-voltage DC motors with inline transformers—check the label on your transformer for voltage and amperage. For motors/actuators, confirm stroke length, mounting brackets, and connector type. If OEM numbers aren’t available, match physical connector, voltage, amp draw, and plug size. When in doubt, use the chair’s model and serial number to look up recommended OEM parts.
Identifying Your Lift Chair Model and Serial Number
You’ll save time and money by identifying your exact chair model before you buy parts or start complex repairs. Small differences between model years can mean different motors, control boxes, or wiring harnesses.
Locating the manufacturer label: common locations on Southern Motion, Lane, Ashley chairs
Manufacturer labels are typically on the underside of the chair, on the frame, or inside an access panel near the power module. For Southern Motion and Lane chairs, check under the seat frame and near the hand control pocket. Ashley often places a tag under the ottoman or on the bottom of the frame. Use a flashlight to find the metal or fabric tag.
Recording model, serial number, and manufacturing date for parts lookup
Write down the model number, serial number, and manufacture date exactly as printed—OEM parts lookups are sensitive to typos. Photograph the label so you have a permanent record. Keep these details in a folder with purchase receipts and warranty info.
Why the exact model matters: different motor types, connectors, and control boxes
Models vary by motor type (single vs. dual actuators), connector styles, control box firmware, and limit switch setups. A control box for a two-motor recliner won’t necessarily work with a lift-only chair. Matching the exact model ensures you get compatible parts that plug in and function correctly without custom wiring.
Taking clear photos and saving purchase paperwork and warranty info
Along with label photos, save pictures of the hand control, power adapter label, and the underside assembly. Keep purchase receipts and warranty paperwork in a folder—this speeds warranty claims and parts ordering. Don’t discard the box your hand control came in; part numbers are often printed there.
Using model info to search OEM part numbers and compatible aftermarket parts
With model and serial numbers, you can call manufacturer customer service or look up OEM part numbers. Many aftermarket parts are compatible, but check voltage, connector, and mounting compatibility. When ordering, verify return policies if the part isn’t an exact match.
Initial Troubleshooting Steps (Quick Checks)
Start with simple checks that catch common issues quickly. Many problems are power or control related and can be fixed in minutes.
Confirming outlet power with a lamp or multimeter and testing alternate outlets
Test the wall outlet by plugging in a known-working lamp or using your multimeter to check for ~120V AC (in North America). If the outlet is dead, try another outlet. Reset any GFCI receptacles that serve nearby rooms—sometimes a GFCI tripped elsewhere cuts power to the chair.
Checking the power cord for visible damage, kinks, or fraying
Inspect the entire length of the power cord for cuts, kinks, or frays. The cord may be damaged at high-stress points, like where it exits the chair. Replace cords with the correct gauge and plug type if you see damage.
Inspecting the chair’s power switch, GFCI plug, or detachable cord connection
If your chair uses a detachable cord with a GFCI or inline switch, ensure the connectors are fully seated. Press any reset buttons on the GFCI module. If the GFCI looks burnt or the connectors are loose, replace it—these are inexpensive and common failure points.
Resetting the control box by unplugging for 30–60 seconds and plugging back in
Power-cycling the control box can clear temporary errors. Unplug the chair for 30–60 seconds to let capacitors discharge, then plug back in and test. Some modules also include a reset pinhole—refer to the manual before using it.
Simple remote/hand control checks: battery, pairing, and visible damage
If you use a wireless remote, replace the batteries and re-pair the remote per the manual. For wired hand controls, examine the cable for pinches or broken wires. A replacement hand control is often cheaper than a new chair, and testing with a spare control can quickly isolate the problem.
Diagnosing Power Supply and Outlet Issues
Power supply problems are a frequent cause of non-working recliners. Knowing how to test transformers and cords keeps you from replacing parts unnecessarily.
Testing wall outlet and GFCI/reset buttons that often serve lift chairs
Check any GFCI outlets in the circuit (bathrooms, kitchens, garages) and press the reset button. If multiple outlets lack power, reset the breaker panel. If the outlet is fine but the chair still won’t power, move the chair to a different outlet to isolate the issue.
Checking the transformer/AC adapter for proper output voltage with a multimeter
Locate the transformer or AC adapter and check its output DC voltage with a multimeter per the label (commonly 12–24V DC, but verify on your unit). Measure across the output plug while it’s plugged into AC—if you get no reading, the transformer is likely dead.
Recognizing signs of a failing transformer (heat, buzzing, intermittent operation)
A failing transformer may buzz, feel excessively hot, or cause intermittent operation—sometimes the chair works when the adapter is cool but fails when warm. If you smell burning or see bulging on the adapter, replace it immediately.
Replacing the power cord or transformer: matching voltage/amperage and connector type
When replacing a transformer or power cord, match the rated output voltage, minimum current/amperage, and connector type/polarity. Under-rated transformers can overheat and fail; over-sized current ratings are acceptable provided voltage and connector match. Use OEM parts when possible.
Tips for safely extending or replacing cords and avoiding tripping hazards
If you must extend the cord temporarily, use a properly rated extension cord and route it to avoid trip hazards. Do not splice the mains cord unless you’re comfortable with appliance wiring—use a professional if unsure. Secure cords along chair frames with zip ties so they don’t get pinched.
Testing and Repairing the Hand Control, Buttons, and Remotes
The hand control is a common failure point and often the easiest part to test and replace.
How to visually inspect the hand control and cord for breaks and pinched wires
Check the entire hand control cable for worn insulation, kinks, or pinched areas where it passes through the upholstery. Open the control pocket and inspect where the cable enters the unit—fraying often occurs at stress points.
Testing continuity and voltage at hand control terminals with a multimeter
With the chair unplugged, test continuity across the hand control switches using a multimeter continuity mode. For powered tests, check voltage at the control terminals while you press buttons (be cautious). If pressing a button doesn’t change continuity or voltage at the connector, the control is likely faulty.
Bypassing the hand control safely to test motors and control box function
You can temporarily bypass a wired hand control to see if motors respond, but only do this with the chair unplugged and if you’re comfortable with the low-voltage DC system. Create a temporary jumper between the appropriate terminals per your wiring photo log to simulate a button press. If motors run with the bypass, the hand control is the culprit. Always re-install safety circuits and don’t leave bypasses in place as a long-term fix.
Replacing membrane switches, button assemblies, or the entire hand control unit
Membrane switches and button assemblies can be replaced if you can access them. Many users find it simpler to replace the entire hand control unit—parts are affordable and installation is straightforward: unplug the old control and plug in the new one after matching connectors.
Troubleshooting wireless remotes: battery replacement, re-pairing, interference issues
Wireless remotes often fail due to dead batteries, lost pairing, or RF interference. Replace batteries first. Follow the manufacturer’s re-pairing instructions—usually a button combination or a sequence on the control box. If interference seems likely (near routers or heavy RF sources), try re-pairing in a different location.
When the control works intermittently: cleaning contacts, securing loose wiring
Intermittent behavior often means dirty contacts or loose wiring. Disconnect the plug and spray contact cleaner, then reseat connectors firmly. Replace any corroded pins and use dielectric grease on exposed connectors to prevent future corrosion.
Inspecting and Repairing the Control Box and Transformers
The control box coordinates power to motors and manages safety features—many symptoms point to the control module.
Locating the control box or power module under the chair and common mounting points
The control box is usually under the seat or in a pouch on the chair underside. It’s often mounted to the frame with screws or Velcro. Familiarize yourself with its mounting so you can access input/output harnesses and fuses.
Common symptoms of a failed control box: no response, partial movement, humming or clicking
A failed control box can cause total loss of function, partial movement (e.g., lift works but recline doesn’t), strange humming or repeated clicking, or motors that run for a moment and stop. Intermittent faults are also common with failing modules.
Checking input and output voltages and fuses on the control module
With the unit unplugged, inspect any inline fuses on the control box and replace blown ones with exact type and rating. Plug in and measure the input voltage to the module and each motor output while you operate the control. If inputs are correct but outputs are not, the control box is likely bad.
How to reset or perform a soft reboot of the control box
Some control boxes have a reset procedure—unplugging for a minute is the simplest soft reboot. Others have a reset button or require a specific power cycle sequence. Check your manual or manufacturer guidance before attempting any reset.
Replacing the control box: matching part numbers, connectors, and firmware considerations
When replacing the control box, match the part number, firmware version (if applicable), and connector pinouts. Some modern control boxes are platform-specific; using the wrong firmware may prevent proper pairing with remotes or motors. If an exact OEM box isn’t available, buy a documented compatible replacement.
Testing after replacement and ensuring motor limit settings are correct
After installing a new control box, test all functions slowly. Verify limit settings—some boxes have programmable limits to stop motors at a certain travel. If necessary, follow the calibration steps in the service manual so the chair doesn’t over-travel or hit mechanical stops.
Diagnosing and Fixing Motors and Actuators
Motors and linear actuators are heavier-duty parts but are often replaceable. Determine whether the fault is electrical or mechanical before buying a new actuator.
Identifying motor/actuator types used by Southern Motion, Lane, and Ashley
Southern Motion, Lane, and Ashley commonly use DC linear actuators with a gearbox and threaded rod or spindle. Some models use single motors for lift and separate motors for recline. Note the brand markings and model numbers on the motor housing to match replacements.
Testing motors with direct power (safe bypass tests) to determine mechanical vs electrical failure
To isolate motor faults, supply the motor with the correct DC voltage directly from a bench supply, observing polarity for direction. If the motor runs smoothly, the problem was likely in the control box or wiring. If it doesn’t run, hums, or stalls, the motor is the issue. Only do direct power tests if you understand the risks and can safely secure the motor and wiring.
Listening for motor noises: grinding, humming, or silent—what each means
A grinding noise often indicates mechanical wear in gears. Humming with no movement suggests an electrical fault in the motor or low voltage. A silent motor usually means no power or an open circuit. Use these clues with your multimeter results to pinpoint the failure.
Replacing a motor or linear actuator: disassembly, bracket removal, alignment and re-installation
When replacing an actuator, photograph mounting and wiring, then unbolt brackets and disconnect pins. Note stroke orientation and bracket alignment so the new actuator mirrors the old one. After installation, test movement through full travel and check for smooth operation and correct seating of pins and bushings.
Lubrication and minor mechanical fixes for seized actuators
Sometimes actuators are seized from rust or dried grease. Remove the actuator, clean exposed threads, apply penetrating oil, and manually exercise the shaft. If it frees up, apply appropriate lubricant and reinstall. Be cautious—if internal gearbox teeth are stripped, replacement is required.
When motor repair is possible vs when full replacement is required
Minor issues like worn brushes (in certain motor types) or loose connectors can be repaired; however, many actuators are sealed and soldered, making motor rebuild impractical. If you find internal gear failure, burnt windings, or significant corrosion, replacement is usually the most reliable and economical choice.
Mechanical and Track Issues (Frames, Cables, Gears)
Not all problems are electrical—mechanical alignment and worn components can stop smooth operation.
Inspecting frame welds and structural components for cracks or warped pieces
Look over the frame welds and structural supports for cracks, bends, or corrosion that compromise alignment. Small cracks may be repairable but structural defects often require professional welding or a chassis replacement to maintain safe operation.
Checking linkage, rollers, tracks, and glide bars for debris, wear, or misalignment
Inspect rollers and tracks for debris, excessive wear, or bent glide bars. Remove trapped lint, coins, or debris that can jam mechanisms. Replace worn rollers or track pieces to restore smooth travel.
Repairing or replacing cables, springs, and plastic gear components
Cables and springs have finite life—if a spring is broken or a cable frayed, replace it. Plastic gears can strip under load; replace these parts rather than trying to jury-rig a repair that will fail again.
Realigning tracks and ensuring smooth travel of the recline and lift mechanisms
Loosen adjusters slightly, realign the tracks so the rollers sit squarely, then retighten. Cycle the mechanism slowly and watch for binding points. Small shims or repositioned brackets can correct minor misalignments.
Addressing squeaks and rubbing with appropriate lubricants and protective pads
Squeaks usually respond to lubrication—use a dry silicone spray on fabric-contact points and white lithium grease on metal slides. For metal-on-metal rubbing, place thin felt or rubber pads where friction occurs to cut noise and wear.
When bent frame parts need professional welding or manufacturer replacement
If you find bent or cracked frame members, consult a professional welder or the manufacturer. Welding a critical frame component without proper jigs can leave the chair unsafe. In many cases, OEM replacement frames or factory repair ensures correct alignment and safety.
Conclusion
You’ve now got a clear, systematic approach to diagnosing and repairing your lift chair: start with safety, check power and outlets, test the hand control and remote, inspect the control box and transformer, and finally evaluate motors and mechanical components. Take photos before disassembly, label parts, and work methodically so you can return the chair to reliable operation.
Emphasize safety at every step—unplug before touching wiring, use PPE, and don’t bypass safety systems except temporarily for testing. Accurate diagnosis saves money; many issues are simple fixes like a bad adapter, fuse, or hand control rather than a costly replacement.
Use the exact model and serial number to source correct parts for Southern Motion, Lane, and Ashley chairs, and keep paperwork and photos for future reference. If you’re unsure about electrical tests, motor direct-power checks, or structural repairs, contact a professional technician.
Many lift chair repairs are far cheaper than replacing the entire chair when you follow the right steps and get the correct parts. Keep a record of your repairs and perform gentle regular maintenance to prolong your chair’s life.
If you need further assistance specific to your chair or want help identifying parts, you can contact Great Furniture Deal at (800) 970-5889 or send photos and texts to (801) 609-3220. They can help confirm parts and advise next steps. Good luck—you’ll often find that a little troubleshooting gets your power recliner working again for a fraction of the replacement cost.
Don’t throw away your Power Recliner Lift Chair. In this video, we’ll show you how to easily fix it. It will be much cheaper to fix than replace. It is either your power supply, your button or remote control or the motors.
Standard Power Supply:
9V battery backup:
Wireless battery:
Motors:
Remote:
If you have any inquiries or concerns, feel free to reach out to us at (800) 970-5889, or alternatively, you can send text messages or pictures to (801) 609-3220. We’re here to assist you!
