This guide helps you troubleshoot and repair lift chairs from Southern Motion, Lane, and Ashley Furniture so you can save money by fixing rather than replacing. You’ll learn how to identify whether the problem is the power supply, the button or remote, or the motors, and what to check first.
A clear video from Great Furniture Deal walks you step-by-step through symptom diagnosis and shows which replacement parts to choose, plus simple repair tips you can try at home. If you get stuck while following the steps, ask for specific help so the correct parts and fixes can be identified for your chair.
Common Symptoms and How to Use This Guide
You’ll start by recognizing common signs that your lift chair needs repair; this guide walks you through identifying symptoms, matching them to probable causes, and using the steps as either a do-it-yourself troubleshooting flow or a technician checklist. Read the symptom sections first so you can quickly decide whether to run basic tests yourself or collect information to hand to a service person. Keep this guide handy while you inspect and test so you can trace a clear path from what you observe to the component most likely at fault.
Typical signs your lift chair needs repair (won’t move, stuck, weird noises, intermittent function)
If your chair won’t move at all, that’s the most obvious sign something is wrong; it might be a dead power supply, blown fuse, or failed motor. If the chair gets partially through a motion and then stops, you’re likely dealing with intermittent power, a failing transformer, or a loose connector. If it’s stuck in one position, check for mechanical obstructions, seized actuators, or limit-switch problems. Weird noises—grinding, buzzing, or screeching—often point to a motor or gearbox problem, worn gears, or a misaligned mechanism. Intermittent function usually indicates wiring, connectors, or a weak motor that only works under certain conditions. Note each symptom carefully; the specifics will guide your tests.
Specific symptoms tied to Southern Motion, Lane, and Ashley Furniture models
Different manufacturers often use similar components but have common patterns of failure. Southern Motion chairs frequently use external transformer “power bricks” and hand-controls that can fail or lose connection; if you see a power LED on the transformer or a labeled rating, that’s a key clue. Lane models commonly have in-line fuses in the power cord or accessible connectors under the seat that can be inspected and reseated; a dead chair with a blown fuse is a frequent fix. Ashley Furniture chairs often use dual-motor or dual-actuator setups for reclining and lifting; if one function works but the other doesn’t, you may have a failed motor or actuator on that circuit. Use the brand as a hint when you locate the transformer, remote type, and connector styles.
How to match symptoms to likely causes (power, controls, motors, wiring)
Match what you observe to four broad areas: power, controls, motors/actuators, and wiring/connectors. No power to the unit or no LED on the transformer suggests a power supply or outlet problem. Buttons that do nothing while the transformer is powered point to the hand control or remote. Motion that is sluggish, noisy, or fails under load suggests motor or actuator issues. Random or intermittent behavior usually ties back to wiring — corroded pins, broken insulation, or loose plugs. You’ll narrow the candidate parts by simple isolation tests: verify outlet and transformer first, then check remote and connectors, then test motors directly.
How to use this outline for step-by-step troubleshooting or as a checklist for a technician
Use this outline as a structured checklist: start at power, then controls, then motors, and finish with wiring/mechanics. If you’re working yourself, perform the basic tests in order and mark results so you don’t repeat steps. If you call a technician, relay the checklist results and symptoms you documented — this helps them bring the right parts. Either way, follow a consistent order so you eliminate the cheapest, most likely failures first and avoid unnecessary part swaps.
When to stop and seek professional help (safety or warranty concerns)
Stop and call a professional if you encounter live wiring you’re not comfortable testing, if the chair has an internal lithium battery or sealed components covered by warranty, if the chair’s mechanisms require lifting heavy subframes, or if the chair is still under warranty. Also seek pro help if you smell burning, see smoke, or notice severe corrosion or rodent damage. Safety and preserving warranty coverage are the top priorities — don’t proceed if a repair risks injury or voiding protection.
Safety First: Precautions Before You Start
Safety comes first for any repair. Before you touch anything, unplug the chair from power and give yourself a few minutes to discharge any capacitors in the transformer. Keep the area well-lit and clear of tripping hazards, and make sure you understand where the main power connections and fuses are located. If you feel uncertain about steps that involve live voltage or heavy lifting, stop and consult a professional technician.
Disconnecting power and isolating the chair before any work
Always unplug the chair at the wall outlet and, if available, switch off any inline switch or surge protector before you begin. Some transformers have LEDs that remain faintly lit for seconds after unplugging; wait a minute to let any stored energy dissipate. If you’re testing the transformer or motor with power applied, keep one hand behind your back and use insulated tools — but remember that most initial troubleshooting can be done with the unit fully disconnected.
Personal protective equipment: gloves, eye protection, and safe lifting practices
Wear cut-resistant gloves when handling sharp sheet metal and use eye protection when working under the seat or around spring-loaded components. If you need to tip or partially disassemble the chair, use two people and lifting straps to avoid back injury and to keep the chair stable. Avoid loose clothing and jewelry that can catch during movement tests.
Avoiding common electrical hazards when testing transformers and controls
Use a multimeter rated for your expected voltage and inspect probe insulation before use. When probing live circuits, use one hand where possible to reduce the chance of current passing through your chest. Keep water and conductive materials away, and never test a wet or visibly damaged transformer. If you’re unfamiliar with AC vs DC measurements, study your multimeter’s settings or seek help — incorrectly measuring a transformer can damage your meter or the part.
Handling heavy parts and motors safely (two-person lift, stable surface)
Motors, gearboxes, and subframes are heavier and bulkier than they look. When you remove a motor or frame component, place it on a sturdy workbench or the floor on a protective surface. Use two people to lift or pivot large assemblies and always support mechanisms that could suddenly release tension. If you must tilt the chair, block wheels and secure it to prevent tipping.
Documenting the chair’s condition and taking photos before disassembly
Before you disconnect anything, take clear photos of wiring, labels, connector orientations, and how motors mount to the frame. Photograph the model/serial plate and any fuse holders or switch labels. These images will be invaluable when you reassemble parts or order replacements, and they are helpful to technicians if you escalate the repair.
Tools and Supplies You’ll Need
Gathering the right tools before you start will make your repair faster and safer. A reliable multimeter, a set of screwdrivers and sockets, needle-nose pliers, and wire tools are essential. Have replacement fuses, spare connectors, and basic consumables on hand so you can complete the repair once you identify the faulty component.
Essential tools: multimeter, screwdrivers, socket set, needle-nose pliers, wire strippers
Your essential kit should include a digital multimeter for voltage and continuity, a Phillips and flat-head screwdriver set, a metric and SAE socket set for common fasteners, needle-nose pliers for manipulating connectors, and wire strippers/crimpers for wiring repairs. These basics let you test power, open access panels, remove motors, and make reliable electrical repairs.
Parts and consumables: replacement fuses, wire connectors, zip ties, electrical tape
Keep a few common replacement parts and consumables: 1–2 replacement fuses that match the chair’s inline fuse rating, a pack of insulated butt connectors and crimp terminals, zip ties for strain relief, and good quality electrical tape or heat-shrink tubing to protect splices. Having these on hand saves trips to the store once you know what’s wrong.
Optional helpful tools: cordless drill, contact cleaner, lubricants, lift-assist straps
A cordless drill speeds panel removal, contact cleaner helps restore intermittent electrical connections, and a light lubrication spray can quiet noisy pivot points (avoid spraying motors or wiring). Lift-assist straps or furniture sliders help when you need to move or tilt the chair. A small digital camera or your phone is useful for recording wiring layouts.
Where to source specialty tools or borrow locally
If you don’t own specialty tools, check local tool rental shops, hardware stores that offer loaner programs, or community tool libraries where you can borrow a multimeter or drill. Buying basic tools is usually inexpensive; specialty motor-puller tools are rarely needed for residential lift-chair repairs.
Checklist format for preparing your repair kit before starting
Before you begin, lay out a simple checklist and confirm you have: a working multimeter, screwdrivers and sockets, pliers and wire tools, spare fuses and connectors, zip ties and tape, contact cleaner, and safety gear. Confirm your phone has battery for photos and that the work space is clear. A prepared kit speeds troubleshooting and reduces the risk of leaving things half-done.
Identify Your Chair Model, Serial Number, and Warranty
Knowing your chair’s exact model and serial number makes parts matching far easier and helps you determine warranty options. Manufacturers often place labels under the seat, on the base frame, or on the power cord. Record purchase date and any service history before proceeding.
Locating model and serial number on Southern Motion, Lane, and Ashley chairs
Look under the seat cushion, along the underside of the frame, or on the back panel for a manufacturer label that lists model and serial numbers. Southern Motion, Lane, and Ashley typically include a plate or sticker with model, serial, and electrical ratings near the transformer or power cord entry. Photograph these labels so you have the exact wording when you call support or order parts.
Checking manufacturer warranty status and what repairs are covered
Check your purchase paperwork or the label for the original purchase date and then review the manufacturer’s warranty terms to see what’s covered — components like motors and transformers may have separate warranties or time limits. If the chair is within warranty, you’ll often be required to contact the dealer or manufacturer for authorized service to avoid voiding coverage.
Why knowing the model matters for compatible parts (motors, hand controls, transformers)
Different models use different voltage ratings, connector types, and mounting brackets. Ordering a replacement motor, hand control, or transformer without the model information risks mismatched pinouts or physical mounts that won’t fit. The model helps you find compatible parts that match electrical specs and mechanical interfaces.
Documenting purchase info and any previous repairs
Record where and when you purchased the chair, receipts, and any prior repair invoices or parts numbers. Technicians and parts suppliers will ask for this history to determine if a previous repair may be related to the current fault and to confirm compatibility.
When warranty service is a better option than DIY
If the chair is still under warranty, if repairs require dismantling sealed components, or if replacement parts are expensive and included in the warranty, contact the manufacturer or dealer first. Attempting DIY repairs under warranty can sometimes void coverage, so it’s better to verify terms before proceeding.
Step-by-Step Basic Troubleshooting Flow
A systematic flow saves time. Start by verifying simple things (outlet and fuse) and move to more specific tests (hand control and transformer), finally isolating the motors. Record each result so you know what you’ve ruled out.
Initial checks: power outlet, power strip, and wall switch
Plug a known-good device into the same outlet to confirm it’s live, and check any wall switches or surge protectors in the circuit. If your chair is connected to a power strip, bypass it and plug directly into the wall. Reset any GFCI outlets on the circuit; an open GFCI can appear unrelated but will kill power to the chair.
Visual inspection: wiring, connectors, remote plug, and visible damage
With the chair unplugged, visually inspect under the seat and along the base for obvious damage: pinched wires, disconnected plugs, rodent chews, or melted insulation. Check that the hand control plug is fully seated and that the power cord isn’t frayed. Look for blown fuses in accessible fuse holders and signs of corrosion around connectors.
Functional isolation: testing remote, hand control, and transformer independently
If the transformer has power, verify whether the hand control is sending signals by listening for relay clicks or using a multimeter to check continuity on button presses. If you have a spare compatible hand control, swap it to see if the chair responds. Removing the hand control isolates whether the fault is upstream (transformer/power) or in the control itself.
Using a multimeter to verify voltage at the transformer and motor plugs
Measure the transformer’s output voltage with the chair plugged in (observe safety precautions). Compare your reading to the rating on the transformer label — many systems are ~24V DC but confirm the label. Then measure at the motor plug while pressing the control: if voltage reaches the motor but the motor doesn’t run, the motor is suspect; if no voltage appears, the fault is upstream in the control or wiring.
How to record results and decide next steps (replace part vs deeper diagnostics)
Keep a simple log: what you tested, the multimeter readings, and the results when plugging in a spare remote or trying another outlet. If the transformer fails voltage tests, replace it. If the transformer is good but the hand control shows no output, repair or swap the hand control. If voltage reaches the motor and the motor fails to run under load, plan a motor bench test or replacement.
Diagnosing and Fixing Power Supply and Transformer Issues
Power supplies and transformers are common, inexpensive failure points and are often easier fixes than motors. If the transformer is dead, replacing it often restores full function quickly.
Symptoms of a bad transformer or dead power supply
Symptoms include no LED on the transformer (if it has one), no voltage output when measured, and complete loss of function even when remotes and buttons appear normal. Some transformers hum or overheat before failing; others die suddenly. Intermittent operation that improves when you wiggle the power brick suggests an internal transformer or cable fault.
How to test the transformer output voltage safely with a multimeter
Set your multimeter to the appropriate DC voltage range (or AC if the label indicates AC output, though most are DC). With the chair plugged in and the transformer connected, carefully measure across the low-voltage output terminals or plug, observing polarity. Compare readings to the label. If you’re unsure, power down before probing internal terminals. Never probe live mains wiring unless you are trained and equipped to do so.
Common replacement transformer specs for Southern Motion, Lane, Ashley chairs
Transformers for these chairs most commonly match the output voltage printed on the original part — many are in the low-voltage DC range (often around 24V DC), but you must confirm the stamped rating. Replace with a transformer that matches the exact voltage and provides equal or higher current (amperage) rating. Using a transformer with the wrong voltage can damage motors and controls.
Step-by-step replacement of the transformer (disconnect, remove, install, test)
Unplug the chair and take photos of connections. Disconnect the low-voltage plug and any mounting screws. Remove the transformer from its bracket and replace it with the new unit, matching polarity and connector orientation. Secure the transformer, reconnect all plugs, and then plug in and test the output before reassembling panels. Confirm normal operation of the chair’s functions.
Estimated parts cost vs full-chair replacement: when it’s cheaper to repair
A replacement transformer typically costs a fraction of a new chair — often tens to low hundreds of dollars, compared to the cost of a new lift recliner. If the fault is a transformer, the repair is almost always cost-effective. Compare the replacement parts and labor to the market value and age of the chair to decide whether to repair or replace.
Repairing or Replacing Hand Controls and Wired Remotes
Hand controls and remotes are frequent failure points because of frequent use. Buttons wear out, wires flex at the strain point, or connectors corrode.
Symptoms of faulty hand controls or worn button pads
If the buttons feel mushy, don’t click, or only work intermittently, the remote or its cable is likely the problem. If the hand control works for some functions but not others, individual switches inside the remote may have failed. Visible fraying near the cable entry is also a sign the control will need replacement.
Testing the hand control: continuity tests and swapping with known-good unit
With the chair unplugged, you can test the hand control for continuity between expected pins when a button is pressed; consult the wiring diagram or label. If you have a spare known-good control, swap it to verify the symptom follows the control. A quick functional swap is often the fastest way to isolate the problem.
How to replace a hand control or wired remote (connector types and pinouts)
Disconnect power and photograph the connector orientation before unplugging. Most remotes use common multi-pin Molex or circular connectors; match pinouts exactly when plugging in the replacement. Secure the new control and route the cable the same way as the original to avoid pinch points. Test all functions before final reassembly.
How to clean and repair stuck buttons as a low-cost fix
Sometimes button contacts are just dirty; open the remote if you’re comfortable, spray contact cleaner, and operate the switches repeatedly to restore contact. If pads are worn, you can often replace the membrane or use a small piece of conductive adhesive as a temporary fix. Always test thoroughly after reassembly.
Where to buy compatible remotes and expected price range
Replacement remotes vary in price depending on brand and features; many are affordable compared to motors. Check parts outlets or authorized dealers with your model and serial number. If you buy aftermarket remotes, confirm pinouts and voltage compatibility to avoid damage.
Diagnosing and Replacing Motors and Actuators
Motors and actuators are the heaviest and most mechanical parts to replace. They often fail by becoming noisy, slow, or dead under load. You’ll need to bench-test motors and plan for heavier lifting during replacement.
How lift motors and actuators typically fail (noisy, slow, dead, intermittent)
Motors can fail due to worn brushes, failed gearboxes, bearing wear, or internal overheating. You’ll notice grinding or whining, reduced speed, failure under load, or complete lack of response. Intermittent operation can indicate worn commutators or poor internal connections.
Testing motors directly: safe bench tests and voltage checks
After disconnecting the motor from the chair, you can apply the appropriate low-voltage supply temporarily to the motor leads to see if it runs (follow the motor’s polarity and voltage rating). Measure resistance across motor terminals; open or very high resistance suggests motor failure. If motor runs freely off the chair but stalls under load, the issue may be mechanical binding in the chair rather than the motor itself.
Signs a motor is salvageable vs needs full replacement
If the motor runs smoothly off the chair at the correct voltage, it may be salvageable; noisy or weak operation, burning smells, or erratic behavior indicate replacement is needed. Some motors can be serviced (brush replacement, bearing lubrication), but often replacement is the more reliable option.
Step-by-step motor replacement for common Southern Motion, Lane, Ashley configurations
Document the mounting arrangement and wiring, unplug, and remove any covers. Support the mechanism and unbolt the motor and actuator from the frame while noting linkages and spacers. Install the new motor with the same orientation, reconnect wiring with the correct polarity, and secure all hardware. Test the function before reattaching panels and cushions.
Cost comparison: replacement motor prices and labor vs buying a new chair
Motors are more expensive than remotes/transformers but still usually much cheaper than a full replacement chair. Factor in your labor time or technician fees and the chair’s age; for chairs in good overall condition, motor replacement is usually economical. If multiple major components are failing, replacement may be more sensible.
Wiring Harness, Connectors, and Switches: Finding Hidden Faults
Many lift chair problems stem from wiring: pinched harnesses, corroded connectors, or damaged insulation. These are often repairable with splicing or connector replacement if you follow good practices.
Common wiring failure points: pinched wires, corroded connectors, rodent damage
Inspect areas where the harness bends, near moving linkages, and where the cord passes through frames. Rodent chew marks, corroded pins, or insulation chafing at sharp edges are typical failure points. These faults can cause intermittent or permanent failures and create safety hazards if not fixed.
How to visually inspect and wiggle-test connectors for intermittent faults
With power off, visually inspect connectors for bent pins, corrosion, or foreign material. Reconnect each plug and wiggle while powering the chair to see if operation becomes intermittent; this helps locate a loose or broken conductor. Wiggle tests are a quick way to find faults that don’t show up on static inspection.
Repair techniques: splicing, soldering, heat-shrink, and using crimp connectors
Use proper repair techniques: strip correctly, use quality crimp terminals or solder joints, and protect splices with heat-shrink tubing. Avoid twisting wires and taping as a long-term fix; a proper crimp or solder plus shrink wrap lasts much longer. Replace corroded connectors rather than trying to clean severely damaged pins.
Replacing inline switches, limit switches, and harnesses safely
Identify the switch part number or connector and replace with matching specs. For limit switches and safety interlocks, ensure replacements are rated for the same voltage and current. When replacing a harness, recreate the routing and strain-relief points to prevent future failures.
Preventative measures to avoid future wiring issues (routing, strain relief)
Reroute wires away from pinch points, add extra zip ties for strain relief, and use protective conduit where wires pass through metal. Keep connectors off the floor where they can collect moisture and check periodically for loose clamps or worn insulation.
Conclusion
You’ve learned how to systematically diagnose lift-chair issues by focusing first on power, then controls, motors, wiring, and mechanical components. Start with simple checks and progress to targeted part replacement; most chair failures are repairable and much cheaper to fix than to replace the whole unit. Always balance cost, safety, and warranty status when deciding whether to DIY or call a pro.
Summary of key troubleshooting priorities: power, controls, motors, wiring, mechanics
Prioritize checks in this order: confirm power source and transformer, verify hand control and remotes, test motors/actuators, inspect wiring and connectors, and finally inspect mechanical linkages. This order addresses the most common, least expensive fixes first and reduces unnecessary parts swaps.
Final checklist to decide if repair is the economical choice
Ask yourself: Is the chair out of warranty? Are the parts needed inexpensive compared to the chair’s value? Are failures limited to one or two easily replaced components? If yes, a repair is likely economical. If the chair has multiple failing subsystems or severe frame damage, replacement may be more cost-effective.
Encouragement to follow safety guidance and consult warranty or professionals where needed
Always follow the safety steps in this guide: power down, use PPE, and document everything. If any test involves mains voltages you’re not comfortable with, or if the chair is under warranty, contact an authorized technician or the dealer to avoid injury and preserve coverage.
Quick reference list of common part names and where to source them
Common parts to reference include: transformer/power supply, hand control/wired remote, inline fuses, lift motors/actuators, wiring harnesses, connectors, and limit switches. Use your model and serial number when ordering replacements and source parts from authorized dealers, parts suppliers, or reputable aftermarket vendors who can confirm compatibility.
Next steps: perform basic tests, estimate costs, and choose DIY or professional route
Begin by performing simple checks: test your outlet, inspect for blown fuses, and photograph the model/serial label. Use the troubleshooting flow to identify the faulty component, estimate parts and time required, and then decide whether you’ll repair it yourself or hire a technician. With careful diagnosis and the right parts, you’ll often find it’s much cheaper to fix your lift chair than to replace it.
Don’t throw away your Power Recliner Lift Chair. In this video, we’ll show you how to easily fix it.
It will be much cheaper to fix than replace.
It is either your power supply, your button or remote control or the motors.
Watch the video to see what your symptoms are and see which of the products below you need to replace the chair.
Product links to all products:
Standard Power Supply:
9V battery backup:
Wireless battery:
Motors:
Remote:
If you have any questions, please let us know!
